Today was a great day. I discovered that I
REALLY like feeling like a princess (or in this case a Maiko-san). It's the kind of fun that makes your eyes sparkle and lets your glee radiate out in all directions.
I went to
Studio Shiki, a maiko transformation photography studio. The transformation from Gaijin to Maiko (Kyoto Geisha in training) was fascinating, and the preparations only took about 40 minutes which was a big surprise considering how different the "Before" and "After" were.
The process began by changing into a pair of tabi (two toed white socks) and a thin linen kimono undergarment which tied through the left underarm and around the waist. Once changed, I was hurried off to the makeup room. A very talented makeup artist got started by concealing my hair in a net and covering the netting with a cloth.
Then, she sprayed her "canvas" with something that I think was stage makeup wax. She began to coat my face, chest and back with a thin layer of Oshiroi, white makeup. Using brushes and sponges, she made sure everything was completely snow white. Then, she drew the trademark sensual design at the nape of my neck. It tickled. I liked it.
After the Oshiroi was done, the makeup artist added blush highlights of pinks and reds around my eyes and on my cheekbones. She continued by applying more pink blush, red eyeliner, liquid black eyeliner, and mascara to my eyes, and red and black eyeliner to my eyebrows.
The last step in the makeup transformation was painting on the deep red lips. The crimson was very wet at first and I had to hold still for the lip color to set. When the color was dry, we discovered that some of my teeth were also coated in crimson. When I asked what to do... she said たべてくだしさい or eat it, please. It didn't actually taste that bad, but I do wonder about the nutritional merits of lipstick.
When the makeup was finished, I was given the near impossible task of choosing a kimono. There were dozens upon dozens upon dozens of beautiful silk kimonos in every color with all sorts of designs and flowers. I wanted the prettiest one, so it took me a while to decide.
Finally, I was ready to get dressed. Two women helped me put on additional kimono undergarments and then the kimono itself. Once the kimono was on, it was easy to see that it was a furisode kimono - the kind with the really long sleeves. Sugoi! After the kimono was in place, my dressers moved on to the obi (kimono sash or belt). For maiko, the obi is tied in a different way, allowing it to dangle. There
were also at least two separate sections to attach in addition to the outer decorative cords. As far as I can tell, this only makes it feel a lot heavier.
When the obi was tied to perfection, it was time to put on a katsura or maiko style wig. The katsura had several benefits: being the proper color, taking only about five minutes to put on as compared to the two hours it typically would take to create the same style in a salon, and it was already adorned with all the appropriate kanzashi
(hair ornaments). I think the ones in my wig were primarily red and white plum blossoms (usually worn in February, but very popular) and an Ogi kanzashi or metal, fan shaped ornament with aluminum streamers.
The last step before heading out was putting on the okobo, or the particularly precarious wooden (usually willow) sandals worn by maiko. These sandals are also called pokkuri or koppori because of
the sound they make when you walk. Because of the way the wood is carved, it felt a little bit like walking on two small rocking horses. Very interesting! I was happy to find that while they were a little tricky to get used to, they weren't as uncomfortable as you might guess.
The breathtaking (!) transformation complete, it was time to begin the "on-location photo shoot" in one of my favorite areas of Kyoto. We wended our way through the small stone streets and alleys of Ninen-zaka, Sannen-zaka and Nene no michi (near Kodaiji Temple and the Ryozan Kannon) with very typically Kyoto backgrounds of traditional Japanese-style houses, walkways and the palpable ambience of the streets all around us. The photographer was really friendly. I had a great time with her.
While the photo shoot was going on, tourists and locals alike were pausing to squeal "Maiko-san! Maiko-san!" and take a few pictures on their cell phones and cameras. It made me feel like a princess and a rock star all at the same time. I could definitely get used to this! :)
After the professional photographer was done, we were able to walk around the Kiyomizudera/Higashiyama area on our own for about half an hour taking our own pictures and luxuriating in the few moments of celebrity and the total confidence which comes with it.
The maiko transformation was unspeakably fun and now I have loads of great pictures which I know I will love for years to come. If, for some reason, you actually want to see more, I promise I won't be shy about sharing. For anyone planning to visit Kyoto, I unequivocally recommend this photo studio and this experience for you or any girls joining you on your travels. Honto ni, tanoshikatta desu ne!
