Firewalking, Kyoto Style

Tonight was the Hiwatari Matsuri at Tanukidani Fudo temple in the northeast mountains of Kyoto. (For those that care, this event is also sometimes referred to as Sennichi Mairi Hiwatari-sai.) It was a really fun festival - one that we had been looking forward to for months. The basic idea was that everyone walks across ash and hot coals while praying for protection from illness and misfortunes. A chance to walk on hot coals! Who could possibly pass that up?

The festival was officiated by a group of yamabushi, or mountain monks. They chanted several sutras and said prayers while lighting a huge bonfire of wooden planks arranged in a square and covered with cypress leaves. They also had one priest wave a haraigushi (wand with zigzag strips of white paper) over the area to purify it. Even though the evening was rainy, the bonfire still sprang to life almost instantly upon being lit. While the fire roared, stacks of gomagi (wooden sticks with prayers written on them) were thrown into the fire. The yamabushi, together with Buddhist pilgrims in white robes, continued to recite prayers over the burning flames. Adding to the other-worldly atmosphere, were the sounds of monks blowing on conch shells and drumming.

When the fire calmed down somewhat and the wooden planks started to collapse, the monks broke down the bonfire with rakes. Then, the ash, coals and remaining wood pieces were spread and raked to form a path. I'd guess the path was about 10 meters long. Most of the red coals and embers were pushed to the sides of the path. So, it wasn't really that long or that hot.

Finally, it was time to begin the firewalking. The monks and pilgrims walked across first, cutting the ropes at both the beginning and end of the path. Behind the monks, a long line of eager participants followed. We placed ourselves near the back of the line hoping to get an idea of what to expect before we were called on to take part. Before setting out across the embers, each barefoot participant was given a red paper amulet and blessed. Upon successfully walking over the coals, each person was blessed again.

We were surprised to find that the coals did not feel hot on our feet. Most days, the sand at any given beach is hotter! At the outset, I was almost giddy with anticipation and had set up some pretty high expectations. I'm happy to report that the experience did not disappoint. I challenge you to go firewalking, Kyoto style. You'll be purified and protected... and you'll like it.